Tiida Hatch Lock Problem

06~13 NISSAN TIIDA 1.8L PETROL

2011  1.8L  C11 Tiida

 

THE PROBLEM

The Tiida hatch will not open

 

The lock mechanism is OK - Tested.
The switch is OK - Tested.

PROBLEM: There is 9V on the cold side of the switch.  Should be Ground.

 

https://diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-versa-service-repair-manuals/

 

Video showing important info about dismantling the hatch

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CDqMuJ_pmMs

 

RED HERRING
The wires do not go into the drivers door.

This video says its in the driver's door lock at the 8minute mark

https://youtu.be/96QvBwVMrlM

Drivers door dismantle

https://youtu.be/Y0C5eM0w1E0

HOW TO OPEN MANUALLY.
This model does not have any manual release.

Lie the two back seats down and lie into the boot space.

Use a small flat blade screw driver.  Push under the white plastic cover and push the lever to the side.

THE CIRCUIT

As far as I can see, the switch is an INPUT to the BCM and then separate outputs control the lock.

The switch is connected by a brown 2 pin connector.
The blue wire has +12V on it.
The Light brown wire has 9V on it.

Pulling the +12V line to ground initiates a hatch open.  This shows that the lock is OK and the BCM driver circuit is OK.  The problem is why is the brown wire at 9V and not ground.

The Brown wire ends up in a 16 pin connector near the drivers door pillar. In the PDF schematic I have, this is a 24 pin connector M13-B102 and shown as pin 16 of a 24 pin connector however my car has a 16 pin connector and I think it's pin 15.  A video I watched suggests that it goes to a switch in the drivers door.  I pulled the drivers door apart but the yellow wire does not go in and I could not trace it by buzzing out.  The problem is where does it go.

I think M24 is the smaller connector.

This is a 16 pin connector but the documents show it as 24pins.

My car is not like this.  I pulled the drivers door apart and there are no yellow wires and I tried buzzing from the yellow wire to every wire in the door.