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Friday, May 30, 2025

28/5 TBILISI UNDERGROUND TRAIN

28/5 TBILISI UNDERGROUND TRAIN

Took a ride on the Tbilisi metro - underground train.

It's a long way down. Maybe a soviet nuclear hideaway idea? Fast and rattly.

https://youtu.be/j9sREs6XNCc?si=C7WHX4RElT2uCYWw

https://youtu.be/j9sREs6XNCc?si=C7WHX4RElT2uCYWw

Tblisi to Istanbul SAW

28/5 WED TBS-IST SAW
Tbilisi train
Georgia National Museum 
Good bye at Fabrika
Fly Tbilisi to Istanbul 

GOOD BYE AT FABRIKA 
Phoebe and I had a lovely "good bye" at Fabrika. Chris had come down and we shared a coke. Megan and Jemma interrupted their touristing and took a bolt back to Fabrika and Dan arrived too. We hugged, wished each other well in our travels and did a farewell hug.

We then took a bolt to the airport. 

FLIGHT
The flight from Tbilisi to Istanbul was uneventful. I'd paid extra for exit row / extra leg room seats. Seems intriguing that one pays extra to be on standby to join the crew. 


OBSERVATIONS -PEGASUS
No USB
No seat pocket. 
No seat
Announcements in English and other languages. 
Cabin staff speak English as well as other languages. 

Saw a Iranian jet on the tarmac

ISTANBUL SAW
Sat outside while Phoebe located a hotel in Kadikoy. This turned out to be lovely.  We were on the 1st floor room 102. No lift so the lower floor was good. It's right in he middle of the Kadikoy tourist shopping precinct 

Tuesday, May 27, 2025

27/5 BUS RIDE TO Pheasants Tears

27/5 BUS RIDE TO TBILISI 
We are travelling Kazbegi to Tbilisi.
  
The road is in terrible condition. The bus often slows to a stop and eases over bumps. 

There are huge numbers of semi trailers going in both directions.  

The road is narrow and when we pass vehicles going in the opposite direction, it seems like there's only a foot of clearance

Patchy snow beside the road. 

Russia-Georgia friendship monument. 

Very poor patchy phone coverage



26/5 Hike to Gergeti Trinity Church

26/5 MOUNTAIN CHURCH CLIMB
the highlight of the day was walking from the hotel to the Gergeti Trinity Church. This was a serious walk for me and had to stop multiple times on the way up. 

On the way up an enthusiastic fellow was trying to entice us into his restaurant. On the way down we began to dream and discuss stopping in for soup. Finally we made it. He was the consumate up seller and we ended up with beef soup, red wine, a bowl of salad and a bowl of bread. While we were there, we observed a Russian family and Phoebe chatted with two young ladies from Saudi Arabia and their mother. 

The evening meal was at "Rooms hotel". I had a burger and Phoebe had borscht. Megan and a friend of hers joined us and later Bruce joined us. 

There was general consensus that both types of red wine were rough but I thought the others were just being too fussy.

I woke during the night with aching feet. Phoebe did too. Time spent giving each other foot massages before falling back to sleep. 

Very poor phone coverage. Three system showed good signal but could not access the internet or make calls. Then suddenly about 4pm it suddenly came good. 

Monday, May 26, 2025

25/5 WEDDING Marcus & Sophie

MARCUS & SOPHIE MARRIAGE
Today my eldest son Marcus married his financee and lover best friend Solphie in front of almost 100 friends and with a backdrop of a snow topped mountain in Kazbegi Georgia.
It was a beautiful day and it's been wonderful meeting and catching up and chatting with their friends and family.
I wish you both a lifetime of happiness. 😀

 


 


 








Sunday, May 25, 2025

24/5 First wedding lunch

A nice slow start to the day for Phoebe and me. Around 9 we walked to our usual coffee shop. Two cups of coffee each later and after I'd done some work on my speech, we walked back to our apartment. 

Cleaned and packed. Took lots of rubbish to a nearby bin. 

11:15 and we are on the footpath with our bags.  We see a car that dropped a passenger. Turns out not to be a taxi but we negotiate 30GEL. Some confusion about the destination. When we arrived, no signs anouncing the restaurant.  I noted that the blue dot coincided with the red tear drop and assured the driver we were happy.  Gave him 40GEL.

Although early at 11:40 for the 1 pm start, we were not the first. I enquired to Marcus why we were asked to be there by 12 and he just said to be sure. 

So many courses and so much food.  Two sets of speeches between courses. Judy kicked it off with a highly animated performance. 

My Father of the groom speech was in the second set. 

Lunch wrapped up with fruit platters, bowls of strawberries and whipped cream and bowls of cherry ice cream and chocolate ice cream. 

A 1km walk to the bus. 

Now on the bus.  After 2.5 hrs we had a toilet stop. Huge queue so I found a bush and established later Phoebe did likewise. 

A lovely view of a huge hydro lake.

A small dramatic diversion as we neared the hotel. The night was dark and the road crap. I think the driver was lost although google maps showed him on point. He decided to turn around. Not a comforting action when you are on a very steep poorly maintained road with no light. He also did not have a reversing camera. At one stage there was a bang and crunch and the bus was leaning too far to the right to be comfortable. Was worried we might roll over. The driver got out and back in and un did his multi point turn and then decided to reverse back. This was equally scary and worrying but eventually we made it although all the while google maps showing us getting further off course.  

Suddenly the other driver appeared in our bus and essentially we now had a pilot 
 
LUNCH


A lovely welcome from the soon to be married couple








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TRIP TO KAZBEGI
 
 











 
 
 
 






Saturday, May 24, 2025

travel packing

PACKING FOR TRAVEL 
Things to remember for next time:
6 metal coat-hangers
10 clothes pegs 
String clothes line. 
Sard wonder soap
1 Walking shorts 

WHAT WORKED 
stuff I brought that worked:
Power plug adapter 
4 or 6 way Power board
Laptop with USB-C Charger.
Phoebe's battery pack. 
Soap in camping holder. 
Face washer.
Quick dry polo shirts. Had 2.  3 or 4 would be better. 
Undies x 
1 cotton tee shirt to sleep in. 
1 boxers
1 sports shorts. Double as togs.
1 belt
1 jeans
1 long black jeans
6 undies (3 cotton, 3 microfibre)
6 socks
Could be right with only 4 of each. 


IMPROVE 
OK but could be better
1 My soft suitcase / back pack is fair but I think my existing pull along suitcase would be better. 
2 A mobile phone wallet that has a section for cash. 
3 the plastic wallet for documents was too big.  The old one was better. 

DIDN'T USE
Too many button up collard shirts. Next time just bring one good shirt. 
Didn't use my towel.  Maybe next time just a tea towel as in a pinch I could dry myself with that. 

Friday, May 23, 2025

22/5 Stalin Museum

STALIN MUSEUM 
Gori is the birthplace of Stalin and has a museum.

We experienced a re-enactment of soviet inefficiency - buying tickets. There was a bunch of people crowded around the ticket window. One fellow, presumably a tour leader was given a bunch of 30 tickets all joined together which he proceeded to tear into individual tickets whilst blocking the window thus preventing anyone else from buying. 

Mostly photos of stalin and other soviet luminaries of the time. Very little English. The Russian I translated with Google translate did not provide an notable explanation. I wonder if they are feeling conflicted about stalin and the museum. 

It felt to me more like a shrine than a museum. 

I would have thought that some history of the madness of Stalin and the 20m soviet deaths would have been mentioned. 















STALINS TRAIN
(I assume)  When we tried to board we were told we needed a ticket.  By the time we had acquired a ticket, the train had left (figuratively speaking).
 
 



 







22/5 Tour with J & H

A huge day touring with James & Henry. 
Visited several churches, monasteries, a convent and the stalin museum.


Tbilisi
Jvari
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral 
Samtavro Monastery
Gori (Stalin Museum)
Tbilisi 

8:00 walked to our coffee shop "Krab"
As we were going to be engaged in an all day touring marathon I had avo on toast and Phoebe had bacon and egg. 
Walked to James and Henry's hotel.
Arrived about 9:30
10:00 met the taxi driver.

The car had an interesting characteristic. As if the rear axle set appeared not really connected to the rest of the car. At speed, the car would sway and shake.


JAVARI
 We drove first to a place called Jvari.  It is the holiest of holy places in Georgia as the earliest monastery. 

It sits on top of a hill with fantastic views. 

Sadly the imagery/iconography was destroyed in the soviet period but the building still maintains a significant place for the Georgian people

It feels like Georgia has gotten onto the restoration band wagon as inside there was a wooden floor above us supporting scaffolding.


SVETITSKHOVELI
Next we visited Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. This is the mother church of the Orthodox Church in Georgia. It was architecturally stunning. 

Our driver is a practicing Orthodox and these places held great significance to him. He bought candles for us to light. A priest anointed us with oil. 

The cathedral was surrounded by a medieval style wall which reminded me that people have been fighting for thousands of years. 

One has to wonder about the huge effort put into building it. 

Was state of the art military now a tourist curiosity. 

Soviets sandblasted the Frescoes. (I think).

The pointlessness of war. 
Living life based on fear. 

 Outside the castle walls were stall holders selling icons and trinkets. A feature not seen before was "wine ice cream" essentially soft serve mixed with red wine. 

SAMTAVRO
is an operating monastery with orthodox nuns. 

LUNCH
Started with salad and a bean flat bread pizza thing and beer. Then suddenly dumplings, pork, chicken. 
So full. 
 
 

 

==========//==========
From Henry's Facebook:
"A long drive followed to the town of Gori. This was the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. Here we visited the museum. Despite the tension and conflicts between Russia and Georgia, the museum showed Stalin in a positive light and tracked his life including his study and progression to become an Orthodox Priest. His revolutionary years and years leading the fight in WW2 were shown (again he seemed to do no wrong). There was somewhat less on the period after the war. A little galley showed aspects of the gulag system. Another long day. 

Drinks were again at Fabrika."
 
===========//==============
 

 Saw this architecture on the way out of Tbilisi.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JAVARI
 
Jvari



Obviously on the tourist circuit.
In a way it's is "good" because it means there is motivation and money to restore and manage.
 
Not obvious are the stall holders including horse rides and wot not. 







The wooden "ceiling" was actually a floor above which was scaffolding.  I assume a big restoration process underway while keeping the doors open for tourists.


--------------------------------------
 Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
 

 This is inside the outer defensive wall
Henry, James, Frank.
Taken by our driver.
 
Here you can see the defensive wall.
 
 









I have not been able to get a clear idea of HOW the soviets removed the frescoes.  When I google this, most results refer to white washing and one response hinted that the frescoes may have been further damages by restoration efforts using sandblasting to remove the white wash.  If that is the case, it's a huge mistake.

A deep "wishing" well.  Very tastefully presented with the lighting allowing one to see along way down and into the water.
Stall holders outside the cathedral defensive wall.





WINE Ice cream
 

 
 
 
===========//===============
 
 
Interestingly the car ran on Methane (Natural gas).
We understand that petrol is very expensive.
 
Other cars run on LPG (Propane)